Trips and Events Log

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Brencoulter
 
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Re: Trips and Events Log 2013

Sat Dec 28, 2013 11:32 pm

Coffs Harbour - 20th-24th December

On the 20th of December, 8 of us left Brisbane bound for Glenreagh, a small town inland of Coffs Harbour, absolutely clueless of what climbing we might find. After a long eventful trip, we arrived at a lovely campground at about 11pm, to a warm greeting from the caretaker. After quickly pitching the tents, everyone hit the sack pretty quick, obviously exhausted by the long trip down.

Waking up bright and early the next morning, we got straight into setting up hammocks and the slackline, keen to laze about all day. After a bit of time on the slack line and being fed diabetes by Ria, checking out the river for a relaxing swim was the best option. Unfortunately it ended early for Kasia when she jumped in and cut her foot on a rock, giving our paramedics Nathan and Noddy a bit of practice. Despite this we still made the most of the afternoon, with a bit of river force em backs with a frisbee. Upon arriving back at camp, there was no way climbing was going to happen, so we resigned to drinking rum and playing 500, with the promise that we would check out the climbing in the morning.

Day two began with forced motivation to get moving and hit the cliffs, and eventually we all piled into the cars and headed off. After quite a bit of bush bashing, we came to realise that we were slightly lost, and that none of the quite spectacular cliff faces we were looking at had any level of development. Adam making a special note to come back with bolting gear then led the way back we came, and eventually we found the crag that took a couple of hours of searching to find. After a few climbs it was time to head back to camp where TJ was, as the lovely boyfriend he is, keeping Kasia company as she was unable to join us climbing with her injury.

Another trip to the river, with Coral staying back because of his ears, and Nathan staying back because he's soft, and this time we went to check out the rope swings below the bridge. Noddy made a promise to Adam that she would look off the edge of the 14m high bridge, and then the next day jump off it, whilst Adam promised that he would only jump off the bridge if she did. We played around for a bit on the rope swings, whilst I desperately wanted to participate, but couldn't for fear of making the wisdom tooth wounds worse. Noddy kept her promise for the day, and stood on the edge of the bridge contemplating how far 14m actually is. Back to camp, and we repeated the process of rum and 500 and campfires for another night. By this stage Coral realised that sleeping on a hammock was much more comfy than cramped inside a tent.

The last day started slowly, with plans to visit an afternoon crag. There was slack lining, 500 (again), and of course, a visit to the river. Remembering the previous day's promise, Adam and noddy ventured to the top of the bridge. After what seemed like an eternity staring down at the surface of the water, Noddy released a blood curdling scream as she fell towards the water. Not two seconds afterwards, Adam came crashing down also.

The crag we went to was a much simpler walk in, and was done without getting lost. We all got through a few climbs and managed to arrive back at the cars just before sunset. On the way back was a quick stop off at a lookout to catch the last few minutes of the sunset before we headed back to camp for our last night. The next morning we packed up and headed home in time to catch the last of Christmas Eve.
QUT cliffhangers: Where you trust your life with someone you just met 15 minutes ago

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Spitz
 
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Re: Trips and Events Log 2013

Wed Jan 08, 2014 1:09 am

Gear Vault Working Bee(s)

Date: Monday 23rd December
Duration: 6 Hours
Participants: 7

Cheers to Shawl, Manda, Greg, Danny, Rhys & C-Man for coming out and helping at the first of many working bees. Their help was much appreciated in getting most of the lino stripped from the floor, cleaning all the walls and starting the priming of the walls and ceiling in the main room. Quite surprising how much dust could be contained in such a small space. Lots of preliminary work accomplished with much more still to do!

Date: Sunday 29th December
Duration: 6 Hours
Participants: 5

Nathan, Callum, Dougal, Shawl & I got down to business working on more painting of the walls and ceilings in all the other rooms as well as stripping the wallpaper in the smaller back room. Painting of the main room is nearing completion and starting to look much more inviting.

Date: Thursday 2nd January
Duration: 6 Hours
Participants: 15

Danny, Dougal, Ria, Adam, Callum, Brendan, Nathan, Michelle, Jonker, TJ, Kasia, Noddy, Shawl, Sam & I proved than many hands makes light work and smashed out coat after coat of paint. We also improved security on the front windows, removed ugly old pipes and cabinets, patched a few holes in the walls and in general made huge progress on the vault. Thanks so much to everyone who came and helped out, you’re all legends!

Date: Monday 6th January
Duration: 6 Hours
Participants:

The smaller crowd of Dougal, Shawl, Callum, Rhys, Noddy & I got back into it on Monday. The smaller back room is very close to being complete minus floor sealant thanks to the last coat of paint on the ceilings and walls. Dougal, Shawl and Callum finally managed to get the last of the lino off the floor with just crowbars and brute strength, top work boys!

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BeingManda
 
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Re: Trips and Events Log 2013

Wed Jan 15, 2014 6:05 pm

Grampians Bouldering Adventure.
Dec 27 2013 - Jan 3 2014

On the 27th of December, Jason, Will and Amanda flew down and met up with Ninja in Melbourne to begin our first official club bouldering trip in the Grampians!
After a quick ‘all hands in Grampians adventure’ team sendoff we began the 3 hr road trip to Halls Gap caravan Park. Incredibly, Ninja had already made the trip once that day to drop off the boulder mats so we could all fit in the car, thanks Ninja!
Our cabin turned out to be comfortable and well equipped for our needs with a fridge, microwave, kettle, toaster and stove.

On our first day we went to the famous Andersens (now more commonly referred to as "Mandersens"). It is the largest developed bouldering area in Australia. Such is it’s amazing that when new bouldering areas are found they are often described in relation to Andersens. "It's like ten Andersens!. But, really, there is nothing equal to even half an Andersens.

Not surprisingly we only touched the tip of thousands of problems there, beginning the send train off with a few V1's and 0's. It wasn't long before the boys were jumping on a beautiful highball, 'Minute Man' V3 where we met some friendly locals (who lent us a third mat and joined the send train). Sends of the day went to Jason and Will's 'Silent Observer' V7 and Ninjas super slabby 'J.S. Memorial Slab' V4.
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Due to a few sore muscles and tendons, we spent the second day at one of the easier sport crags (one of very few in the gramps). We stuck to 16’s and 18’s and complained a lot about our heavy packs. The send-train finished up with us all doing head jams on an awkward bolted 15 crack.

On the third day we ditched the rope bags and went back to bouldering.
We headed straight for the ever-hyped 'Project Wall Dyno' V6! The send-train continued with Will flashing the problem and Ninja and Jason not far behind.
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After a few plays on some of the harder problems on the wall we headed back to Andersens where Amanda put some work in and sent her first V3, 'Lygon St Massacre'. After a few more problems we headed to the Giant Koala for some well-earned and highly anticipated Send IceCreams.
On the fourth day we visited " Kindergarten," a smaller cave riddled area at the other end of Andersens. A few fun sends were had before we headed to Horsham for some more food and new years supplies. Being new years, the send family decided to celebrate by sharing a couple of family sized pizzas at the local pizza joint and groove away the remaining hours in our cabin.

Rain on Wednesday gave us the chance to have a real rest with only one day left for the family send-train!
We rose bright and early on the last day and headed for hollow mountain cave, home of Wheel of Life (V16)! We jumped straight on the send train early on, all sending 'Dirty Dancing' V5.
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Later in the cave the boys went on to send 'Wimmel Friedhoff', another much harder V5.
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The afternoon saw us exploring some problems atop the mountain, the most enjoyable being the awkwardly difficult V5 sloper mantle, 'Circus Jerkus' which had the boys flopping around like baby seals for much longer than could be tolerated without laughter.
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And so ended the Grampians family adventure. Solemn goodbyes were had as Jason and Will jumped on a bus for Melbourne and Amanda and Ninja headed to Arapiles for epic Tradventure!
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NathanF
 
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Re: Trips and Events Log 2013

Thu Jan 16, 2014 10:43 pm

Candy Mountain, Saturday 11 January
Duration: 5 hours
Attendees: 12

A fun day had by all with an abundance of dirt, moss and slightly less holds as the day went on. Being a new crag it was a somewhat different experience to normal. Rather than looking to use white chalked up holds we were avoiding them as in most cases the white (or pale green) was moss rather than chalk. While the grades weren’t hard, between exploding hand holds and mossy foot holds every move was made with care.

Noddy lead a couple of climbs – once and for all proving that when she is screaming ‘take!’ at KP she really does mean slack. While being lowered off a climb he had just finished Adam pulled out his calk ball to mark all the ‘best’ holds on an adjacent line that had just been put – ever the considerate climber.

With new lines still being put up (I think there were 4 new ones were ‘opened’ while we were there) this easy to access crag will only get better as more people climb on it.

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RyanK
 
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Re: Trips and Events Log 2013

Tue Jan 21, 2014 7:50 am

Mount Coolum Sunday 19/01/2014

It was time to get in some solid cranking before the newbies flocked in. Of course we knew it was going to crowded being a Sunday in summer holiday season but we didn't expect it to be 37 people crowded! Pretty well all the routes were being used with tickets being sold at the Coolum pie shop for Crazy Horny and Screaming Insanity. Despite the crowds we got a decent amount of climbing in and Brendan managed to send Chevy (24), his first tick at the Grade despite having sent 25. Will and Jason kept up their siege on Separation Anxiety (28) and both seem to be coming real close. Whilst the climbing was good the highlight of the day was being witness to probably the most impressive ascent I have ever seen. You wouldn't think Coolum would be your likely place for Greenpointing (climbing a sport route on natural gear) but Matthew Cochrane showed this isn't the case with his ascent of Evil Wears No Pants (30). The gear seemed decent but quite generously spaced with 3 or 4 bolts between gear placements. A truly impressive and aspiring achievement to witness!
Ryan King,
President - Grade 19 club.

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Spitz
 
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Re: Trips and Events Log 2013

Fri Jan 24, 2014 3:16 pm

Gear Vault Working Bee(s) Part 2

Date: Thursday 9th January
Duration: 4 Hours
Participants: 7

After a slow start, Rhys, Dougal, Brendan, Tom, Callum, Shawl and I got started on the dirty work of removing the 30 year old glue from the floor with an angle grinder and wire brushes. More painting also occurred in the main room.

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Date: Friday 10th January
Duration: 6 Hours
Participants: 10

More exciting work occurred in painting and grinding off glue on the floor as per usual. Many thanks to Shawl, Dougal, Ryan, C-Man, Jonker, Rhys, Danny, Tom and TJ for their extraordinary efforts. All of the holes in the walls are now patched and everything seems to be coming together. The floor was the main focus in order to get it prepped for sealing in the coming days. Holes in the concrete were filled and large debris removed, but most of the hard work was in the cleaning of what seemed endless dust and grime from the floor.

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Date: Sunday 12th January
Duration: 8 Hours
Participants: 10

A long, productive day at the gear vault with Choppy, Michelle, Macca, Jonker, Callum, Ria, Adam, Shawl and Danny. Time was spent again washing a million years worth of dirt from the concrete in preparation for floor sealant in the coming days. The vault also received a major security upgrade thanks mostly in part to Ria, Adam and Callum. The door is now barred and windows reinforced from inside the vault. As always, more painting of miscellaneous patches of wall that have been fixed or missed.

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Date: Monday 13th January
Duration: 7 Hours
Participants: 3

Shawl, Callum and I spent the day on the laborious task of sealing the floors after demonstrating our ingenuity in getting the floor to dry using floodlights and a fan. Possibly getting a little intoxicated and/ or obtaining lung cancer due to epoxy fumes in the process but we managed to get most of the first coat done on the floors.

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BeingManda
 
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Re: Trips and Events Log 2013

Mon Jan 27, 2014 9:59 pm

Arapiles
3rd - 13th January 2014

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Where do I start?

First off you've got the campground, aptly named The Pines due to the vast amount of pine trees offering shade throughout the day. It's a basic site with toilet facilities and not much else. We spent the week experiencing the Arapiles dirt bag lifestyle. Bread, 2-min noodles, frozen veggies, Weet-bix, milk and Museli bars kept us going for the most part. We went through a few packs of wet wipes and splurged a couple of times by visiting the Horsham Aquatic Centre for a well-earned shower.
The weather ranged from Day-jumpers-and-beanies to it’s-too-hot-to-move. In the end we did a lot of climbing in the late afternoon/early evening when the weather was perfect and most of the cliffs were in the shade.

So what about the climbing?

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Well, while I spent my time searching for routes with bolted anchors to save myself from my lack of trust in trad gear, Ninja was searching for the hardest, most adventurous classics he could find. Most notable were Scorpion crack: "the climbing equivilant of the shower scene in psycho,” Kachoong “the most photographed route in Arapiles”, WatchTower Crack “the most commanding line at Arapiles”, Arachnus “an unforgettable classic” and Brain Death Boulder, which pretty much speaks for itself.


Watch Tower Crack ***, 4 Pitch, (16)
It was a lovely cloudy day as we set out to the watchtower to see what we could see. To our surprise there was no one already climbing the crack (I wonder why…) so we jumped right on it.
It was just as Ninja begun leading the 3rd pitch that it started to rain. While I sat there in my cave and tried to keep my spirits up, Ninja bravely continued and finished the third before things got too wet. I followed him up “laybacking to glory” on the perfect crack line and set up for the final installment.
At this point I was glad to find that the fourth pitch actually offered some shelter to the belay point and, Luckily!, the crux which loomed above us.
Michael did his usual epic Ninja routine blitzed the crux and disappeared from site. By now it was proper raining. I could see the holds to my right quickly filling with water and wondered how Ninja was fairing at the top of the cliff.
I believe after relaying my experience of the last section as “climbing an amazing waterfall," I was quietly informed that I was “actually the worst.” I suppose he did have a point. Leading a slabby waterfall with limited protection and a shit ton of rope drag probably isn’t as enjoyable as top roping it in a rain jacket.
Regardless, it was Ninja trying to convince me about 30min later to jump on Arachus, another 4 pitch climb to the left of The Watchtower Crack.
“It’s only a 9! Super Classic! Not to be missed FOR ANY REASON”
It's just a 9, how hard could it be?

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Arachus ***, 4 pitch, 9
I mean, in the end, a super exposed 100m overhanging jugfest probably does deserve three stars and a super classic rating.


Scorpion *** (18) 30m
The first time we set off to climb this we arrived at the base of the cliff, stared at the topo, stared at the cliff and for at least ten minutes, wondered where the hell we were. A few minutes later we spotted it “It’s up there!” And there it was, a beautiful searing crack, about 5 pitches above us, at the top of the mountain.
We returned the next day via the newly discovered access route to the starting ledge. The starting ledge is about 1m wide, and inconveniently ends abruptly about 1.5 before the beginning of the climb. Luckily there was a good ol trusty fixed nut to protect both belayer and leader from plummeting 30m to the ledge below in the case of a fall. Totally bomber.
After placing a few more ‘bomber’ pieces of gear, I held my breath as Ninja bravely bridged the void and pulled himself up into the slightly overhung starting chimney. Not long afterwards I lost practically all sight of him and resigned to try and distract myself from the frightening idea of being pulled off the ledge into the open space in front of me.
The fun wasn’t over yet. The starting chimney of the climb decided to have some fun with us by grabbing the rope every time we needed a bit more slack. After 20 minutes and 2 or 3 nerve-racking down climbs, Ninja finally removed enough protection to redirect the rope out of the crack and continue up the searing crack.
In the end, neither of us fell in the void, I actually had a great time squeezing through the chimney and we both thoroughly enjoyed the fist sized crack that is Scorpion.

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Kachoong ***, (21)
I 100%, honest to God, did not want to climb this. We’d talked about it, but I never thought Ninja would seriously make me climb it.
“Wait, we’re not climbing Kachoong…are we?”
20 excuses later and it became apparent that it wasn’t going to rain, we weren’t too tired and the sun really wasn’t about to go down. So here I was again, standing on a precarious ledge with a void beneath me, an overhang above me, and literally shaking in my Feiyues.
Kachoong is the most photographed climb in Arapiles for a very good reason. By the time you get to the belay ledge your 30m up, then you climb another 15 reachy metres and head straight out on a horizontal flake before heave-hoing over the lip and toping out on easy ground.

So in high spirits as always, Ninja stepped around onto the face and used his go-gadget arms to clip the starting bolt (yes, a bolt!) and he was off. After a useful rest before the roof he completely blitzed the crux and toped out with an almighty Woop. His first Trad 21!
Meanwhile, though I still couldn’t stop my hands from shaking, it was time to go. After being informed by Ninja that he’d slung “the biggest chock stone I’d ever seen”, I swallowed hard and stepped off the ledge.
It was about this point that he informed me that the start was…“a bit reachy”. Trying not to cry, I cheated my way to the first jugs and continued up to the rest before the roof. I had a little panic here for a few minutes wondering what gear I should take out when to reduce the epic swing when I inevitably pumped out on the beautiful flake. It was probably the wrong attitude to have but I did make it most of the way out before pumping out, slipping off and swinging my way out into the void with an almighty squeal.
The rest was a lot of giggling from Ninja, prusiking and yelling from me and some super jugs to the top out.
It the end it was one of best climbs I’ve ever done, and now that I wasn’t dead, a lot of fun as well.

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Brain Death Boulder
We’d visited this spot on our first day and been reasonably well shut down by the difficulty of the bouldering compared to Grampians.
One problem had lingered in Ninja’s mind though so we returned on one of our last days to tackle “Brain Death,” V4.
Like I said, it pretty much speaks for itself. It’s an off-width vertical crack, which quickly becomes a horizontal crack, creating the necessity to invert yourself to reach the top. Good times.
Spoiler Alert – Ninja didn’t end up smashing his brains on the boulder mat or breaking a leg whilst stuck halfway up the crack (which I saw happening in my head many times whilst spotting)
Such is the beauty of off-widths that it was a slow, awkward squeeze to the top. After many leg jams, controlled back offs and one or two reasonably desperate bails, Ninja finally got the balls to commit to the reachy crimper and with a little maneuvering, topped out with a massive smile on his face.
Utterly relieved, I waited for him to climb down and prepared to get going. But. Alas. No send photos! So, Ninja decides to climb the horrendous off-width again, without a spotter, so we could get some send photos. And, really, you just wouldn’t have understood without them!

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At the end of the week, with our super sad faces on, we began the 24hr journey back to Brisbane. Turns out the roads from Arapiles to Brisbane consist of little more than endless expanses of desert. So, with the sun beating down, the left hand window broken and some hot air blowing from the air vents (along with some random spiders legs!), we drove the 11 hrs back to the Bluies.
We camped overnight at Mt York and got reacquainted with our good old friend, Sport Climbing.
Inspired by the sight of bolts, we jumped on Low (22) and both went in for the send (my first 22!)
We had a play around in the cave area, Ninja coming close to sending Caves Route (24), then headed for our second stopover in Dubbo.
Conveniently for us, my parents were running the local caravan park. They put us up in a cabin, let us swim after they’d already closed the pool and even cooked us a real dinner. A pity I’d been living in the bush for a week and actually forgotten it was my Dad’s Birthday!!!
Worst….Daughter….EVER!

The final leg was made bearable by the multiple ice cream and frozen coke vouchers we’d scored from my parents.

In the end, with a stopover in the Bluies the trip back wasn’t all that bad!
Look out for our second Grampians/Arapiles trip next year!

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Spitz
 
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Re: Trips and Events Log 2013

Tue Jan 28, 2014 11:56 am

KP Monday 27th January
Attendees: 8
Duration: 4 Hours

Quiet night of climbing after a solid weekend at Brooyar. Set 6 ropes from Surrender and towards the right.

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Spitz
 
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Re: Trips and Events Log 2013

Wed Jan 29, 2014 11:14 pm

KP Wednesday 29th January
Attendees: 18
Duration: 4 Hours

Set 7 Ropes from Vegemite down to Kiwi, everyone looked to be cranking out the climbs. Good attendance to curry also :mrgreen:

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RyanK
 
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Re: Trips and Events Log 2013

Thu Jan 30, 2014 10:50 pm

Strength and Training Night 30/01/2014

Coach Wills second strength and training night. This time we were introduced the magical climbing triangle, which reveals that combining Strength, Technique and Mentality you will wield unholy power. The problems were hard, which was good I guess cause that's what we came for. We could have guessed it being an event done by Will but when he brought out some juicy steak the night reached new heights. Thanks to Steve and Loz for letting us play on their wall.

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Coach introduces the climbing triangle
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Ryan King,
President - Grade 19 club.

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David
 
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Re: Trips and Events Log 2013

Wed Mar 05, 2014 11:53 pm

Tonight at KP sent a bunch of easier climbs, ~25 attendees. Most of the notable action happened down at The Rasp. Danny & Rhys set about earlier in the afternoon to top rope, clean and then lead the climb from the ground up. With the crux (grade 21) before the first bolt it's no small feat, having to clip up at about 7m... yikes!
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¯\_(ツ)_/¯

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TJ
 
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Re: Trips and Events Log 2013

Sun Mar 09, 2014 12:15 pm

Skills Day Saturday 8th March
Attendees: 35
Duration: 5 Hours

Skills Day saw a solid turn out at the Nursery Cliffs, with six abseil lines being set, and all newbies running through their basic and advanced knots; abseiling with a fireman’s belay and with prussic backup; gear inspection and care; an introduction to the skills logbook; and a demonstration of rope wear, both by cutting and rope-on-rope friction, with Noddy being our willing (and squealing) guinea pig. New v1.4 skills logbooks (hot off the presses!) were also handed out.

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Big thanks to everyone who showed up and helped to make it such a success!

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TJ
 
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Re: Trips and Events Log 2013

Sun Mar 09, 2014 12:37 pm

Inaugural Climb-O-Rama

Wednesday 19th February
Attendees: 350
Duration: 6 hours

No-one knew what to expect for the club's first Climb-O-Rama, an event targeted especially at commencing first year students, and heavily promoted through the QUT orientation calendar, QUT Students and QUT Guild facebook pages, and throughout O-Week on campus by our cadre of committed helpers. While the stall at KG was still in full swing at 1pm, more than a dozen volunteers began setting a total of 31 top ropes at KP in the blazing sun. At 5pm, the hordes began to descend, with the number of first years completely swamping our supply of gear, and the rest of us doing what we could to manage such a large group. Thankfully, the assistance of a few brilliant QUT Connectors to man the BBQs and handle marshalling meant we were able to concentrate on supervising the ropes, and getting everyone onto the rock.

Such a high profile and successful event will do so much to enhance the operations of the club going forward, and everyone involved should give themselves a big pat on the back for playing their part in making such a landmark event possible. Here's to the future of the QUT Cliffhangers Climb-O-Rama!

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TJ
 
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Re: Trips and Events Log 2013

Sun Mar 09, 2014 12:51 pm

Open Day
Saturday 1st March

Attendees: 200
Duration: 8 hours

After holding Climb-O-Rama just ten days earlier, Open Day saw a big turn up of both continuing students and first years coming back for a second taste after their Climb-O-Rama.
20 ropes were set, with the climbing running on well into the afternoon. The carton of Red Bull provided by their on-campus promo team went a long way to making the early start tolerable who were there from 6am to set up top ropes. Flyers designed by the talented Kalvyn-Joy, featuring the upcoming events for the month of March were also handed out. A big hand to those who were there to help set ropes, supervise newbies, and feed the hungry crowd, especially so soon after the madness of Climb-O-Rama!

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David
 
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Re: Trips and Events Log

Wed May 14, 2014 4:40 pm

Nobby's beach bouldering
Friday 11th April

Attendees: 7
Duration: 8 hours

Awesome, sunny day at the beach. Not only that, there was some pretty cool (admittedly sharp) boulders to be climbed! It's not every day you can combine the sea and sand with underclings and mantles. A bunch of fun, reachy V2s that were good to play around on. Was also good for the gang to see Nathan again after his time away.

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¯\_(ツ)_/¯

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MichaelH
 
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T.I.P.

Sun Jan 04, 2015 7:39 pm

THIS IS PHILIPPINES

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… anyone for adventure???

Tired and run down from my first stint of working full-time... you know, ever. I was just planning to take it easy in KL over my one week Christmas break. Just do regular boring life stuff, maybe tick off some local projects which I can never seem to put together consecutive weeks on. Skyping with my mum however changed that, 'You're in Asia, don't be boring, you should go travel!'. Fuck it, yeah I will go somewhere. I started googling south-east Asian countries... then appending the word 'climbing'.

Within an hour I had settled on this.

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It looked cool, it was going to be relatively cheap for something largely unplanned, I'd never been... it looked obscure... a d v e n t u r e !

Cantabaco has three guides, Raymond, Enie and Willard. I messaged all of them, but Willard got back to me first.

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I didn't have a good sleep the night before, I woke up five or six times during the night, I don't feel well. It's 6.30am, the earliest I've woken up in a while. I have breakfast at the hotel, it's not that good. Coffee helps. Its pissing rain down heavily outside. I feel like going back to sleep, I send a message to Willard and nap another hour.

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I take a taxi to the South Bus terminal, I go up to everyone in a uniform and show them Willards message. A series of finger points and I'm sitting on a bus. Its 8:30am. Traffic is slow. The conductor comes around to everyone and asks people where they are going, they pay, he gives you a ticket. He already knows where I'm going. The advantage of being the only fair skinned person within miles. The bus is loud... like really loud... with dance music.

In the Philippines there is music everywhere, dance music with the bass so loud you can barely hear the melody, let alone yourself think. I don't mind the music, but it's 8:30am, and testing my eardrums. The bus is full of families and old people, they don't seem to mind. The bus becomes packed fairly quickly. I'm squished to the window. The window is made of wood, and you slide it down into a slot to open it. I'm next to a woman, her young son on her lap, and an old guy, who looks a year or two away from death. My legs are squished to my seat by my backpack. I still don't feel well, maybe just a combination of the music, the humidity and the tight space. Its raining really heavy. I check the weather on my phone.

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I'm sure Willard will send me a message if anything is amiss.

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The bus is going really slow. People jump off and on it while its moving. Hawkers selling everything from water, newspapers, nuts, chocolate, cigarettes, sausages, bread and sandwiches. The system is annoying, the conductor blows a whistle for the bus to stop and start. However, if there is only one person to get off or on, the bus just slows down enough for them to make the running jump. The hawkers jump off and on the bus at speeds that seem rather risky.

I open the window so I'm not as cramped, my arm gets wet from the rain. Hours are ticking away, it will take me all day to get there at this rate. I've been on the bus for two hours, we are barely outside of Cebu. I soon see the problem. A truck has crashed into a shop front. Blocking two lanes. There's ambulances everywhere and police conducting traffic.

The bus doesn't go the route I think I will, I realise as we get deeper into mainland that this is probably due to the terrain, steep with windy roads, and that I'm actually going the 'safe' way. The bus goes along the coastline before winding its way up into the mountains. The conductor taps me on the shoulder, 'next stop', he remembers me. Thankfully about 9 people have to move off the bus so I can get out with my giant backpack, so the bus has to come to a complete stop for me to exit.

There's about four guys on motorcycles (the habal habal) at the bus stop. One guy comes up to me, looks at my backpack and says 'I know where you are going'. I didn't feel that safe on the bus. It was raining heavily, the roads are slippery and winding, there's obvious evidence of previous landslides, people like to overtake each other around blind corners. The bus is a big hunk of steel, and at least the wooden windows wouldn't shatter glass into my eyes if we did crash.

The motorcycle however, is not the encapsulating steel/wood prison that the bus was. I could have gone back. Instead I decide to push visions of my own death into the back of my mind. 'Just please go slow'.

I realised as we pulled out of the bus stop that he was wearing a helmet and raincoat. I was still wearing what I got dressed in straight out of bed. The first part was the scariest. We punch it straight up this steep section just out the corner from the bus stop. My backpack being so heavy was feeling the weight of gravity. I tried to sit back and lean forward as much as possible, but momentum is dragging my body off the back of the motorcycle. I had to core up quite hard and hang on quite tight. I realise now that I probably should have put my backpack between us if there was room. The road was still two lanes, but there was no room for parking. Cars would just be parked on the road and block one lane, cars and bikes would just weave in and out of them. After about 20 minutes he dropped me at the Mountain Park Resort, Cantabaco.

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I was soaked head to toe from the ride. I dropped my backpack and messaged Willard. He said he would be there in 15 minutes. It was 11am, still early. I didn't feel well, my core was already sore from the motorbike ride, and my legs felt like jelly from the bus. I had to go to the bathroom. I went inside the resort and saw a couple. I asked where the toilet was. I went, but couldn't flush. I came back and asked them how. They said that toilet was broken and to just leave it. Oh well, Mountain Park Resort, please accept my holiday gift to you! The couple were two novice climbers from America, the place looked empty except for them.

Willard showed up on his motorcycle, laughing, joking, full of beans. I'm still skeptical.
'Are you sure the cliff will be dry?'.
'Area 5 will be dry, I have been there when it has rained before'.
'Have you been there in a typhoon?'.
'No'.
'Well... since I'm here anyway'.

We rode Willards motorcycle down the street, and then off-road down a bumpy path for a minute. I might have insisted to just walk the extra five minutes, but I guess I was getting used to this 'habal habal' thing. We crossed a river on some bamboo logs and then walked up about 70 or 80 concrete steps, before taking a narrow jungle trail for another minute to the crag.

Area 5 - Cantabaco
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Area 5 looked cool, pocketed, polished, blank, white and yellow limestone. It was bare with a few obvious features, some tufas, a prominent roof and an upper overhung section. Willard said that the area had 64 routes now, most pitches around 25-30m, and a couple of multipitches where you could climb through the overhang at the top (which was sheltering us right now). However, on this particular day most of the climbs were wet. Only about 4 looked dry, good enough for a days climbing.

Ready to start climbing
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To start off we chose a 5.11, which started like most of the climbs, on some sharp pockets, with slopey footholds. The rain was quite heavy, the wind was kicking some mist into the bottom of the cliff making the initial footholds spoogy enough to be unpleasant. The start was quite hard, vertical and becoming slightly overhung. It was finger pocket after finger pocket. I was nearly flash pumped to oblivion before reaching a nice rest about half way where the climb slabbed out for a few moves. I rested there for a while before moving right towards a crack at the side of the prominent roof. Limestone is very porous, and often in behind cracks are damp or wet after rain, even if the face is dry, as I've discovered from my climbing in KL. Today there would be no exception, the crack was wet. I found a kneebar in the side of the roof to compose myself for a bit. Then prayed for luck as I jammed and laybacked a few moves up the side of the wet crack. I was hoping for a jug at the top to dry my hands, but no such luck. The the climb moved left again onto the face. I didn't figure out the sequence too well and was starting to get pumped again, but I looked up and the anchors were next so I just went for it and clipped them. The climb was probably about 22, felt maybe a grade harder since the crack was wet, but I think that section wouldn't normally be so hard.

I was pretty exhausted from the climb. My head felt dizzy and I had to sit down for ten minutes before I could belay Willard. Afterwards Willard and I chatted for a bit. He has been guiding at Cantabaco for a year. The area is still very new, and routes are still going up. He doesn't have a full time job at the moment, guiding is his only source of income, and he has a young son who he wants to send to university one day. I realise this is probably why he didn't call off climbing today.

I was looking around at the other routes, Willard said the two classic routes of the cliff were still dry, Black Foot and Cantor, both 5.12 (about 25 and 26). Both looked similar, up some pockets again, then through the big roof to a shared anchor. Willard assured me that the holds I needed on Black Foot were dry, even though I could clearly see a huge water streak was running down beside it. I didn't believe him... but hey, I'm a star chaser.

Warm Up (left) / Black Foot (right)
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The start of Blackfoot had some very slippery footholds, and some very sharp pockets to pull on. It took me about 4 goes to figure out the start. It was some really off balance climbing on some awkward crimps for two bolts. Then another crimpy section on the black limestone flakes for a couple more bolts before a pumpy section with some shoulder moves and crossovers to get under the roof. The roof was the second major hurdle. There was a slot at the back of the roof. I could fit my fingers in sideways and just jam them down, then reach a good pocket undercling with the left hand, get the feet up and big reach out for the lip to a good pinch (indicated by a large tick mark). From here I was having trouble. Willard kept telling me there was a hold to my left but couldn't find it. After falling a 3 or 4 times I finally dogged on the bolt to see if I could find anything. There was a narrow slot, which didn't look like much, but was a hug jug once you got your fingers behind it. The only problem was that it was wet. After chalking it for a few minutes and drawing a big tick mark of my own I tried the sequence again. Right hand slot, left undercling, pinch the roof, drop knee and cut the feet as I get my hand into the slot, campus to another obvious jug, get my heel up on the wet water streak and clip. From here I could stand up above the roof, to a more restful position. Now there were no more bolts and little traverse up and right. I had some nervous moments getting to the anchor when I realised I couldn't put a draw on from the 'good' holds. I was too tired and pumped to want to fall and climb the section again. I gritted my teeth and bridged my feet up on some wet slippery left footholds.

I watched Willard try the climb after me. I noticed he did an arm-bar rest in a crack below the roof to get a rest. I decided to try the climb again after a long rest rather than attempt something else. It was raining even heavier, my stuff and the cliff was getting wetter and wetter.

Second go didn't go much better than the first. Another three goes to get through the sharp pockets at the start and then I couldn't figure out this arm-bar to rest under the roof, my arm was too long. Water was pouring into the left hand hold now, my tick mark for it was gone and I fell at the roof again. When I did the move again I couldn't trust my left heel on the wet holds anymore and just dogged on the draw to clip. Even though I knew the moves to the top, I was pretty wrecked now and thanked the climbing gods I could clip the anchor draw from the lower holds.

Unbeknownst to me, Willard took some photos of me on Blackfoot
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It was 4pm. I'd had enough. Time to call it a day. All my things were wet and covered in mud. We packed up and headed down.

This time I was wearing thongs, since my shoes were completely soaked, so going down the slippery jungle trail was a bit slower. My core was feeling the day as we trundled down the concrete steps and back to the river. It was here that things got interesting. The bamboo bridge that used to be at the bottom of the steps was no longer there. Here Willards carefree Filipino demeanour disappeared entirely as he uttered 'this isn't good'. Perhaps it was some sort of problem that his motorbike was sitting one side of the river... us on the other.

Willard looking concerned / His bike on the other side
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We trekked left from the river through the jungle for ten minutes until we came upon this 1 room house, with straw roof. Two children, a boy and a girl were inside. Willard talked to the boy for a minute, and then he grabbed a towel for his head and lead us out down another narrow jungle trail. It was maybe 20 minutes or so until the boy brought us to another bamboo bridge. This bridge was similar to one I crossed before but with one difference. The last poorly constructed bamboo bridge was at the water level. This poorly constructed bamboo bridge was quite high of the ground, its hard to tell in the photo, but 5 or 6m from the rising water, with very steep sides. Falling off this bridge was going to hurt, with rescue unpleasant.

The young boy shows us the next bridge
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I let Willard go first. Using all my slacklining skills, putting fear and tiredness aside, I traversed across the very flexible, and not entirely taped together bamboo bridge, desperately hoping the side rail wouldn't give out on me. From this bridge, we walked back out to road, and then back along it to where Willard and I had started our walk in. Willard jogged for a few minutes back down the path from the road to get his bike.

Willard gets his bike back
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Willard suggested I stay a few more days at Cantabaco, but I decided against it. The cliff wasn't going to be dry for a while, I didn't feel well. A hot shower back at my hotel was calling me. Willard offered me a lift back to the bus stop.

One of my original concerns the first time I got on the habal habal was the prospect of having to do the trip twice. The second time with me being much more tired. Those concerns were well founded. Now both of us weren't wearing helmets, both of us were wearing thongs, I had a heavy backpack, both of us were tired from climbing and hiking, and now we were going to motorbike along windy steep roads... during a storm... for 20 minutes... to the bus stop.

Willard had me hold the umbrella with one hand, to keep the rain out of his eyes. I used my other hand to hold onto him. He held one side of the umbrella with one hand, and steered with one hand. I told him to drive slow. However his interpretation of 'slow' was either different to mine, or rather, as I suspect, he was just fed up with rain in his eyes, and wearing cold wet clothes, and just wanted the day to be over as soon as possible.

I had a similar problem to the first ride. Upon accelerating, my backpack was trying to rip me off the end of the seat, the seat was wet and I was slipping on it. My core was in agony as I tried to lean forward as much as possible, and my arm was cramping up holding the umbrella, which was coping a beating from the wind. My life flashed before my eyes as we crossed onto the other side the road to pass a stationary car. Another motorcycle coming the other way had also crossed onto the other side of the road. I thought to myself, I hope they both know what they are doing here. To me it seemed to risky to cut back sharply into the other lane, we'd both be better off going back to our respective correct lanes after we passed each other.

This didn't happen. Both bikes turned in sharply cutting straight across each other. The other bike narrowly missed me, going at speed, by just a few centimetres. The adrenaline kick helped me hold on as we swerved. Once my heart started beating again I noticed my head was buried well and truly into the back of Willards rain soaked shoulder .

Both my arms were cramping up from switching hands holding the umbrella. My core hurt. My legs were still jelly. We reached the bus stop just in time before I couldn't hold on any longer. Luckily there was a bus waiting. Willard made sure it was the right bus. I asked if anyone minded if someone wet and muddy sat next to them. No one replied. The conductor just said 'sit there', and pointed me to the nearest seat, beside another old guy who looked like he only had six months left to live. The bus back was much quicker, just over an hour. The music was as loud if not louder than in the morning, no one seemed to mind. I reached Cebu about 6:30pm.

I was wet and muddy anyway, my hotel was only 1km away, so I decided to walk back. The days rain had taken its toll on the city, a lot of the streets were flooding, unable to drain all the water properly. That night I had a fever, diarrhoea and stomach pain. Turns out I had gotten food poisoning the night before, which is why I felt so terrible all day. Probably from a dodgy place I ate at the night before. I couldn't really do much the rest of the trip. I even had to go to hospital again when I got back to KL. I'm ok now, but I still get a few stomach cramps.

Typhoon Seniang was downgraded to tropical depression Seniang as it made landfall that day. The final death toll in Southern Cebu was 21 from sinkholes, landslides and flash flooding. It also destroyed 93 houses, damaged another 63 and left 562 people homeless.

Destruction from Seniang
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I guess in hindsight it wasn't a great day for climbing, the typhoon warning was the giveaway. It was a sombre feeling knowing that I survived the day, when others didn't. Though if I hadn't gone, I would still have food poisoning... and no story.

I had a strange revelation later in the trip where I realised a lot of the dance beats played in the bus sounded like remixes of the ambulance and police sirens used in the Philippines. To me it was a quirky reminder of how cheap life can be in some countries.

I will go back climbing in the Philippines again one day. I really did like the place, even though it can be dangerous... and I got sick, but the trip was always about the adventure, and an adventure it was. This story might not convince anyone to go climbing in the Philippines, but maybe the cost of the trip in AUD will persuade some people to give it whirl over Thailand.

Last minute flights from KL to Cebu
$300
Hotel accommodation in Cebu City 7 nights
$200
Cost of guide (which I only needed because I didn't have a climbing partner)
$13
Bus to Das Lutopan
$1.10
Habal habal
$0.60
Accomodation per night if you stay in the resort at Cantabaco
$5.50 (2 ppl)
330 ml beer at a pub or restaurant
$1.24
500ml beer at the 7-11 (plus they have a bottle opener and they open it for you)
$1.10
Expensive drinks at the nightclubs
$5
Normal meal
$4
Budget meal
$3
Expensive meal
$7.70
Large Ice Coffee (from Starbucks or BOS)
$4.20
Taxi from the airport to Cebu City (40 minutes)
$7

I shall conclude this trip report with a short compilation of me riding the bus that day... its all about that bass. You can also see the Jeepneys out the window. Jeepneys are converted US military jeeps which act like buses, except they have no timetable, and where they stop is just written on the side of the jeep. They are cheap, loud, colourful, fun... and a little bit risky... just like the Philippines.

Safe climbing everyone, Ninja

Last edited by MichaelH on Sun Apr 24, 2016 9:22 pm, edited 1 time in total.
A ninja probably would just dyno past all those crappy holds you used

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Siah
 
Posts: 182
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Re: Trips and Events Log

Thu Jan 29, 2015 11:09 am

Slider, Sunday 18th January
Attendees – 5

The day started with Brendan, Noddy, Brad, Alice and I all cramming into Brendan’s car for the trip up to Mt Tibro. With the aircon blasting in the car on the way up we were oblivious to the horror scene that was unfolding outside. We arrived at the Slider car park in 34 degree heat. The walk in was less than ordinary. Admittedly the slider walk in is never comfortable, but the searing heat surely made the experience significantly worse than previous times.

We eventually made it to lower slider only to discover that we had arrived too early, the sun was still raining down on the walls of Lower and Upper Slider. I suppose they call it an afternoon crag for a reason. We found what little shade we could and rested for about half an hour. Brendan and I considered doing a shaded climb “What Monkey Calls the Dog-Woman” on the other side of lower slider but decided against it having no knowledge about the quality/safety/actual location of the climb.

I was getting impatient. The sun was slowly moving off the Lower Slider wall, and as soon as there was a fraction of shade on the wall I jumped on Blowing Bubbles (17) for a warmup, although safe to say I was already quite warm. Brad attempted to belay me from as close to the base of the cliff as humanly possible, to make use of the small amount of shade that was there. By the time I had finished the climb, which I dubbed 0 stars, the sun had well moved off the wall. Brendan and Noddy headed up to Such a Nice Monster (15) while Brad and Alice top-roped Blowing Bubbles.

I then jumped on Something About Sandy, a solid 19 with a difficult crux. Near the crux I somehow managed to smash my elbow violently against the rock reaching for a hold, spoiling my send attempt. I suppose it wouldn’t be a proper day of climbing if I didn’t manage to hurt myself somehow. No blood though, which would have to be a first. With a lot of persistence Brad made it up on top-rope. The fact that I was top-belaying him and told him I would/could not lower him down gave him a bit of extra motivation I think.

As the sun moved further behind the wall, the heat subsided slightly; however, Slider’s trademark cool breeze seemed to be absent. After teaching Brad how to clean an anchor we joined the rest of the crew, who had headed up to Upper Slider. Brenden had planned to work Wailer (25) and I had planned to work Squealer (23). To our dismay both those climbs were already occupied by UQ climbers. So I jumped on Slider (22), the crag classic. I didn’t send it this time, instead giving Brad the chance to catch a lead fall, which he did, thankfully. Noddy and Brad then tried their luck on Slider, both making it to the anchors on top-rope. The day was getting old and the UQers had finally cleared out, giving Brendan a chance to have a go on Wailer and me on Squealer. Unfortunately there wasn’t enough time left in the day for either of us to send, however we were both able to get familiar with the moves for next time.

The walk out was ten times better than the walk in, although it was still quite warm. There was a few trademark slider walk out tumbles, the loose rocks making it hard to keep your footing; however, no rolled ankles thankfully. One dollar frozen cokes were a must on the drive back home, to end what was indeed a very warm day of climbing.
Offering blood sacrifices to the rock gods since 2014

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David
 
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Re: Trips and Events Log

Mon Mar 16, 2015 2:17 pm

Date: 15 March 2015
Trip: Caves Route
Attendees: 13

It was a bright, clear, fresh sort of day when we started out. Most of us met at KP for a 9am departure. We did a headcount and the only person we were now waiting on was Michael. Noah had done transport and I was wondering which Michael he was referring to. It was infact the infamous Ninja, who now lives in Malaysia that we were waiting for. Looked like he was going to miss out this time, and we hit the road.

We rolled into the car park and once Danny and Spitz arrived we set out. Craig and Rhys were in front to tackle the Zeitgeist multi while the rest of us went up the classic Caves Route.

The sun was out but it wasn’t too hot, but scrambling 250m+ does get you pretty sweaty. The party bumbled up the first pitch without ropes, and then Danny and I set a rope for the next pitch which was a little steeper. We took a breather in Cave 3 where there was a nifty rock formation. The exposure stepping across the ledge from the Cave is always funtimes, and Danny and I set up another rope for this standout pitch of the route. Spitz and A-Aron keeping an eye from the bottom.

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We were pretty high up by now. The next part of the route is called “The scrub”, and last time I was there I remember it being mostly charcoal and burnt trees from the bush fires. This time it was completely different. I would definitely describe it as a jungle, filled with spiders and thick head-height plants that you had to push your way past. In other words – horrible.

We eventually struggled our way through this up to the final chimney pitch where myself and Danny scrambled up to set up a rope on the route. Then the party headed to Cave 5 for lunch and shenanigans.

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It was at this point, we had a think to ourselves – where the hell are Rhys and Craig!? They said they meet up with us on the caves route, or infact be in FRONT of us. Little did we know, neither of them actually had done the route before… I’ll come back to this.

Josiah, Spitz, Danny and I all had a play around on the two routes that climbed up the sides of Cave 5. Jojo and I had a bit of a moment where we could almost reach out and touch each other’s hand at the shared anchor; it was beautiful. I also had a bit of a surprise when I reached for the jug crack on the right-hand route, and bats started flying out! I got the tick second shot, and Danny walked away with a flash. He also pulled off a pretty great bathang.

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After some time, Jojo and A-Aron led the noobs up the chimney pitch of Caves Route to the lookout, no doubt spectacular. Meanwhile, Spitz, danny and I were still messing around in Cave 5 when FINALLY Rhys and Craig showed up. They had topped out on Zeitgeist and had no clue where they were going, so started rappelling down Caves Route, thinking they were in a different cave. After realising they were actually rappelling down the route they were meant to be going up, they must have had a frustrating scramble back up.

Craig got in all kinds of positions on the lefhand route (23), and Rhys walked away ticking the 23 and flashing the 22. The send train was definitely in motion at this point.

Whilst the rest of the team were busy getting down to the Cave 5, and Rhys, Craig and Spitz were busy climbing roofs, Danny and I went on some serious adventure climbing in the main Summit Cave. The route we tried starts 20m above the sloping slab of summit caves, and busts out through some seriously exposed, steep territory. A truly epic positon with the challenging grade of 26. I put up (some of) the draws with a lot of difficulty, and left Danny to back- clean the route, much to his dismay. It was definitely the first time I have heard him say “That was scary”. Looking over to the right of us we could see Jojo, Zulli and Dani making quick work of one of the easier summit cave routes, in a similarly grand position. I mean, this cave needs to be seen (and climbed) to be believed.

It was getting late by all accounts, and energy levels were dwindling. We merrily (overstatement) started wading back down through the scrub jungle. Little did we know how long it would take for all thirteen of us to rappel down the entirety of Caves Route. As Spitz was headed down the slabs, she was stung thrice by a vicious bunch of wasps, which made the remainder of the descent less than enjoyable for her. Progress was slow, and the sunlight started to fade. Danny was delirious, and wouldn’t shut up about how good a chocolate Brekka would be right now, even though all of us were completely out of water. The darkness descended upon us as we were getting close to the ground.

To speed up the process A-aron and Craig had rigged simultaneous rappels, but even this wasn’t enough to get us down before nightfall. The majority of the others had gotten down and started walking out, but for the remainder of us, we were left to scramble down the last pitch in the dark. Craig exclaimed “THANK F&#% I’M ALIVE”, when reaching the bottom. Surprisingly, I was the only one who had brought a head torch. Phones proved invaluable yet again, offering a source of light. I think we eventually were all at the base of the cliff by 7:15pm.

We could look up and see an unlucky party that was still rapping down a route to the left of us in absolute blindness, bar a head torch that kept looking our way. At least we aren’t them, I thought.

Back to the cars and away we went, back to Brisbane by 9pm… a 12 hour adventure, yikes!
¯\_(ツ)_/¯

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Dougie Bear
 
Posts: 235
Joined: Wed Mar 13, 2013 9:41 am

Re: Trips and Events Log

Tue Mar 24, 2015 12:30 am

Date: 20th March 2015
Trip: Mt Tibrogargan Multi
Attendees: 2

We headed off from Brisbane at 7 and made a beeline for Tibro, wanting to get climbing before the heat of the day really set in. We were a little concerned by the overcast conditions in Brisbane, but were relieved that the clouds cleared as we drove north. We parked up, racked up and headed straight to the crag, where I eventually worked out which was the climb I wanted (being the only sport climb at this particular crag, this took more effort than it should have!). As we sat at the base of the climb for a quick breather, we realised we had made a grave error – it was 8.30 in the morning, and we were going to be climbing on the East face of the mountain. Full sun the whole way. Not deterred, we flaked the rope, tied in and I started up the first pitch of Zeitgeist (17).

I cruised up to the first set of anchors and set my belay while Andrea stuffed our shoes and the rope bag into my pack. She was barely a few metres up the climb when she decided that it was going to be too challenging to climb while wearing the heavy pack (with our combined 4.5L of water, food and shoes). Thinking quick, I eventually communicated to her that I would tie off the belay, throw down my end of the rope and haul the pack up for her. I first attempted to throw down just a bite of rope, however the 30m + pitch meant this was impossible with a 65m rope, so I untied and sent the end of the rope down to her, which luckily just made it. Andrea rigged the pack onto the rope, and then I learnt how heavy it was as I hauled it hand-over-hand up to the anchor. It was in fact a welcome relief to get a quick drink of water before I took her back on belay and she smashed out the rest of the crux pitch.

Once Andrea joined me on the broad, sunny ledge, she took a welcome drink while retrieved my quickdraws from her harness. With us both slightly rehydrated, she put me back on belay and I started up pitch number two, the easiest at grade 13. I was a few bolts up from the anchor (which isn’t far given how well protected the climb is) when my phone started ringing, so I stopped at a nice hands-free rest above the bolt and took the call, which turned out to be from my employers, offering me work for next week. After wrapping up the phone call (while Andrea emphatically rolled her eyes) I climbed on, only to stop a few metres later to reply to the text confirming details of the work. I made it to the next anchors without incident, skipping a bolt or two to conserve quickdraws, minimise rope drag and because it’s a heavily protected 13. Andrea made a great effort to smash this pitch while wearing the pack (which was lighter for the water we had consumed.

The third and final pitch (15) was entirely uneventful, and I even got a tiny patch of shade to uncomfortably perch in whilst belaying Andrea up. When she joined me, we sat a while and took in the view, snapped a few obligatory selfies and lightened the pack of more water. We made short work of the descent, opting to rappel straight back down the climb rather than down the (to us) unfamiliar Caves Route. We got down without a hitch (Hahaha unintentional pun, no dropped belay devices today!), despite me missing an anchor by a couple of metres and having to prussic back up the rope. Once back on solid ground, we quickly scrambled down into the welcome shade of the trees and ambled back to the car.

A stop at the fruit market for some delicious watermelon for lunch, then to the pub for a quick beer before heading home in the early afternoon.
DuglButt, Dugl Dugl Duglbutt
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Re: Trips and Events Log

Tue Mar 24, 2015 12:35 am

Date: 21st March 2015
Trip: Frog Buttress
Attendees: 4 - Shawl Cilliers, Dougal McLeod, Kuran Daigle and Morgan Stephensen

The day started with us all meeting at Shawl's house, piling into the DuglBuz and hitting the road, not in the least concerned by the dark clouds filling the sky as far as the eye could see. After an uneventful drive, we stopped in Boonah for the essential pre-climbing pies.

We were soon enough at the crag and walking straight down to the Right of the Scree Slope, with Shawl set to warm up on Shit Heap (15) and recommending that I try out Sunday Afternoon Walk (10). We both smashed them out and soon had our seconders on the rock for their first proper crack climbs - and they both did admirably. In no time at all Kuran was smashing through the mantle at the top of Sunday Afternoon, and heading along the ledge to the rappel anchor. When coming off the belay to get me over however, he managed to launch his brand new belay device off the edge of the cliff and several metres into the scrub. After having a good laugh, he rapped down on my belay device and sent it back up before going on the hunt for his own.

Once both safely on the ground, the pair of us went around the corner just in time to see Shawl finish Materialistic Prostitution (17). We had a short break while watching Morgan struggle with this new concept of jamming, and give sassy responses to our encouragement. Once she topped out, I jumped in to lead it with a loose top-rope backup. Though failing to send the climb, I managed to get up it far better than on previous attempts. Shawl, Morgan and myself had a few laughs while I belayed Kuran up, then we had a short chill on the ledge, admiring the view.

Having finished down that end, we headed back to the Scree Slope, where I tried my luck on the awkward 'Clockwork Orange Corner' while Shawl climbed a short yet tricky climb around the corner. After having bridged, smeared, chimneyed and contorted my way up Clockwork, having had to attempt at clever double cam placement on either side of a loose flake in an attempt to hold it still, Kuran smashed his way up and we started the short walk back down.

We decided to finish the day on Three Nuns (?)(10), a slightly off-width crack with few placements for my rack of almost entirely small gear. Luckily it was a veritable bush walk that I cruised up. Kuran didn't have as easy a time however. He was trying to get a seeming set nut out of the wall, so he gave it a sharp flick with the attached quickdraw, causing it to immediately dislodge, at high velocity, and attempt to lodge itself instead in his forehead. When he popped his head up past the final ledge, there was a trail of blood running down between his eyes and off his nose, though thankfully no lasting (physical) damage was done. We walked back down, packed our gear and headed off for the pub.

Our timing turned out to be quite fortuitous, arriving just before the rain hit. We decided to stay at the pub for dinner, sitting out on the verandah and enjoying the lightning show. We eventually suffered the wet drive home to end a fantastic day of climbing.
DuglButt, Dugl Dugl Duglbutt
Turn around, stick it out, show us what you've got

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